Oaky Beer Chilli Sauce

Centre: Burning Embers, clockwise from top: Poblano, Cayenne, Serrano, mutant from the Pobalano seed packet.

Centre: Burning Embers, clockwise from top: Poblano, Cayenne, stunted Chocolate Habanero, Serrano, mutant from the Pobalano seed packet.

I harvested all the remaining chillies from my indoor chilli plants as they were starting to dry out a bit. What do you do with half a kilo of chillies… well, you make chilli sauce. Obviously. We have dried chillies hanging all over the place already. As recipes go this is pretty non-replicable due to the use of a motley collection of chilli varieties – but as a blueprint it should work for any chillies.

The magic ingredient: beer with a bit of “barrel” in it. In my case Brain’s Boilermaker – Welsh Whisky-Barrel Aged IPA… a beer that I really did not enjoy very much. Not my thing at all I’m afraid. I had bought two bottles and the other one was skulking around unloved in the back of the cupboard. A distinct attribute of the beer has is a vanilla-ish whisky-oaky flavour. This, thought I, could work quite well in a sauce… vanilla-oak chilli sauce? Sorted!

Ingredients

Ingredients

Ingredients

  • 600g of fresh chillies – 500g once once stems removed
    • The “power” of your chilli sauce will depend greatly on the varieties used. I have mostly “Explosive Ember” (a stunning edible-ornamental), plus quite a bit of Cayenne, and a handful of Serranos and Poblanos. This makes what normal folk may call a “medium” sauce, it has a good bite but won’t blow any heads off.
  • 440g (1 tin) of peeled plum tomatoes
  • 275g (2 medium) roughly chopped brown onion
  • 45g (4 big cloves) roughly chopped garlic
  • 400ml cider vinegar
  • 330ml oaky beer – 1 small bottle
    • I used Brain’s Boilermaker, but there are many options out there. Any of those much-reviled Innis & Gunn beers would be interesting to try, for example. Look at it this way: it’s a cheap way to add interest!
  • 1tsp black pepper – freshly ground
  • 3tbsp/30g currants – to add a little extra body & umami
  • Salt – to taste, add at end – I actually didn’t bother.

Method

Prepare Chillies

Prepare Chillies

Purée Chillies

Purée Chillies

Prepare Other Solids

Prepare Other Solids

Purée Other Solids

Purée Other Solids

Simple. Put all the non-liquid ingredients into a food processor and “whiz” to a paste. I actually did this in two separate batches, chillies first and then the rest – because I couldn’t be bothered getting out my big food processor. Combine the paste with the liquids in a suitable sized saucepan, bring to a simmer and simmer until a desirable “saucy” consistency is reached. This took me about an hour. The consistency is such that a spoonful will slightly heap. Finally blitz the sauce to as smooth a paste as possible – for this job I used my trusty stick-blender.

Before Simmer

Before Simmer

After Simmer

After Simmer

This sauce should last at least a week in the fridge, probably a month. If you pop it straight from simmering into sterilised jars or bottles then it should keep in the cupboard for months. (Or to be certain you could pasteurise it once bottled too – this is what I did.)

With Steak

With Steak

Verdict? I was surprised how well this worked to be honest. I was a bit concerned by using such a high proportion of “Explosive Ember” chillies, which are thin skinned and very seedy. I did eat a couple whole before doing this and they proved to be pleasantly flavoured and not too bitter, otherwise I’d not have tried. The sauce is rich, has a good kick to it, and I’m certain I can “taste the wood” – per se. The vanilla-oaky flavour that I didn’t enjoy so much in the beer works much better when translated into the context of a chilli sauce.

In practice so far the sauce works well with spring rolls and grilled steak. Personally I’m looking forward to slathering a burger with it, or a sausage-inna-bun. It’ll be delicious.

After I had put everything into one big pot I mentally kicked myself, thinking: ah, dammit, I should have done two batches – one with beer and one with water. That way I’d be able to determine the taste impact of the beer with more confidence. This time next year… expect an update on this one!

Navel Gazing…

Food
Yesterday I did a bit of blog/plugin/PHP hackery… as I wanted a sort of a recipe index for this site. (At the same time I created a food pairing index.) What this exercise revealed is that I really haven’t published enough recipes. So – for 2014 I think I want to focus more on the cooking and, to a lesser extent, food/beer pairing… I actually have an additional 10 recipe entries in draft stage (mostly incomplete due to lack of time). I’ve been writing up my foodie notes online for years now, pre-beeriness, and it has always been simply because doing so is great fun. Devising the Saison Char Sui(ish) Pork Belly recipe recently reminded me of my “roots”, as such.

Goal: for every non-foodie entry I write I MUST write TWO foodie entries.
Additional: for every non-recipe foodie entry I must write two recipe entries.

Blather
I do still want to record other experiences… and in 2013 there were some huge highlights such as doing the full-week bar training course at GBBF in August. Trip & event reports are great fun to write too, such as my recent Fremantle & Swan Valley write-ups. However I want to avoid “politics” posts… aka “blather” or “verbal diarrhoea“… there’s enough of it out there as it is, and it really isn’t particularly useful. I think I’ll avoid things like “The Session” too… while they’re sort of fun they’re also a off-topic for the most part.

Homebrew
A new thing that arose in 2013 was homebrew… I’m still not entirely sure where I stand with homebrew. So far I’ve had “acceptable” success with all but one beer out of five being quite pleasant… and the “one” bad one being “not all that bad” (it has an acetic flavour that I dislike, yet have found in other much-lauded beers).  It has an affinity with cooking, but is my heart really in it? I tend to leave most brews in primary or secondary far longer than I ought to… mainly because bottling is such a bloody chore. So will 2013 be the beginning and the END of homebrew for me? Or will I continue as I have… or will I move on to “proper” full-mash brewing? I really haven’t a clue at the moment. Oh, and I’d better bottle these damn stouts this week. Ho hum!

Bike
Not entirely on-topic but I do also want to get more cycling events in this year. I did a handful last year… but not enough. A painful highlight was the doing the London Revolution with Windsor & Eton folk… over 180 miles in two days… recovery took two months. Damn right knee. But it was excellent fun regardless. This year I have ALREADY embarked on a training plan that should lead me to a more successful London Revolution in 2014 – and hopefully have me looking a little less of a horrid tub of lard in my Republika jersey. There seems to be quite an intersection between cycling & the brewing world… especially mountain biking. Off-road is my personal preference and it has been far too long since I did some good singletrack on the hardtail. I’d love to do some MTB (meet-the-brewer) MTBing (mountainbiking) in 2014. It’d be a blast. This is also part of a general fitness goal… the last few years have been unkind as a result of self-neglect: too much beer, not enough exercise.

In 2014 I might even play with video a bit more… or perhaps the world doesn’t need to be subjected to such a horror. I’d need to clean the kitchen properly first anyway.

Session #83 – REALLY Against The Grain

The SessionOK, sorry, the session thing… here’s a “real” one. ;) And I’ll keep it short even – and no Greene King bashing.

US IPAs & especially DIPAs… I am not convinced. Sure, most of what hits the UK from the US is past its best by the time it reaches my mouth. So I’ve stopped putting it in my mouth. However I have had some pretty fresh stuff too – including Pliny the Ever Loved And Adored By All. I mean, Pliny the Elder – and it was a pretty good beer & I’m incredibly grateful to Kirk for sharing it with us… it ticked a box for me. That box being: hm, so I guess all these “wonderful” US IPAs really do taste like they have a caramel lolly in them. A flavour that is usually pinned down to the use of crystal malt. In the case of the Pliny it was lightly but distinctly present & the super-fresh hoppiness almost… almost… compensated for it. But for me… not quite, and I probably wouldn’t put it in a personal top-10-IPA-tastebud-experiences sort of list as a result.

Now – turn to UK renditions of this new-wave-IPA style and many are what I call “clean”… in my mind this is a defining difference between US IPA & modern UK IPA as styles. Most Kernel named-after-a-list-of-hops beers fit this, Hardknott Azimuth too I think… everything hoppy by Oakham, in fact Oakham probably defines the style for me. Green Devil… mmm. Other folk I know, often folk from the US, are sometimes heard to call my “cleaner” UK IPAs “unbalanced” – they seem to want more caramel lolly in their beer. I don’t get it. I’ve been perplexed enough about this huge gap between my tastes and what seem to be the tastes of the wider “craft beer” world to wonder if there is some hop flavour involved that detect as caramel… I don’t think so. Perhaps I’m just over-sensitive to some caramel-type flavours for some reason, perhaps a “bug” in my brain means I don’t like the flavour.

It remains a puzzle. But that’s how it is – I remain unconvinced by US IPAs… however there are a hell of a lot of of US IPAs I’ve never tried. So one of these days I hope to visit the US and do a proper survey of the style as tasted fresh-as-a-daisy on its home turf. Perhaps I just haven’t found the ones that suit my tastes yet.

Session #83 – Against The Grain

The SessionWell this session was irresistible… but there are so many different ways to go with it. I’m unconvinced by US IPAs… I’m grumbly about faddish new brewery fanboism… but I kind of understand these things. What I do not understand is the UK’s top beers. Ignore RateBeer, Untappd, and the loud-yammering yet minuscule craft beer community. I’m talking the likes of Carling, Sharp’s Doombar, Greene King IPA…

Carling and its ilk… for the most part inoffensive. Most beer drinkers just want to get something alcoholic in them I guess and value consistency & simplicity. It’s part of the UK’s derisively-dubbed “chemical fizz” world of pseudo-lager… much maligned in beer circles from the old-school CAMRA to the new-wave craft, yet by far the lion’s share of the beer market. Let us move on from this… it’s not “craft” by anyone’s measure anyway… how about a look at the UK’s unique craft beer world of cask conditioned ale, aka “real ale“.

Sharp’s Doombar is the current holder of the “UK’s most popular cask ale” title… it is sweet, brown, and inoffensive in good condition. Yet near-universally served in a bloody awful state – offensively flat, cardboardy, vinegary. But it sells. Despite pints and pints of substandard beer being sold & consumed it is a huge success. I’d love to know why. Is it really just down to marketing success? Is it price? I don’t have a clue – forced to choose between a pint of Doombar or Carling, it’d be Carling for me every time.

Greene King IPA is the former holder of Doombar’s top-of-the-cask-pile title… it’s probably what the word “twiggy” was coined to describe. Even in great condition this beer has a unique backnote of dead rat. Seemingly some odd estery product of their yeast that I’m perhaps over-sensitive to.  I find it offensive… but to many the word for this beer – in good condition – is probably “inoffensive”. Again… I’ll take the pint of Carling, thanks. To be fairer on Doombar it does rate 73-for-style in RateBeer, whilst GKIPA is 3-for-style. Yes… “3”… I’m not sure how long it was “top of the pile” for, but I suspect Greene King’s insistence on it being stocked by all of the pubs they own is possibly the reason.

Both these beers have become a bit of a pub screening-test for me. If I peer in the door and of an otherwise unknown pub and see one of them on… I leg it. For the most part these beers are a reliably indicator for a pub that doesn’t give a rat’s ass about beer. Usually tied houses with management who just don’t care.

I seem to go against the grain of the UK’s larger cask ale drinking society. If I want to put something inoffensive in my mouth I’ll stick with water thanks. But why is there such a huge demand for these beers? Greene King – perhaps it’s the tied estate, Doombar – perhaps the sheer uncomplicated dullness? In these times of the gastronomic silliness of dusts, foams, & smears – and punchy wine lists where even the subtle old-world is trying to mimic the brash new-world. Why do most beer drinkers settle for… bland?

Perhaps it is that my view of “these times” is blinkered within a world of foodies, aspirational connoisseurs, craft beer wankers, and whathaveyou – and really the UK is for the most part and at core still a land of les rosbifs… sliced white bread and pseudo-lager.

Note: as for “craft beer” – up until recently Sharp’s & Greene King would certainly be “craft breweries” by the US definition – until Sharp’s was bought by Molson Coors… a similar situation to Goose Island. Do you call it craft? Are either of these craft in a UK context? You’ll get different answers depending on who you ask of course.

[Edit: yes, I do realise that my views here are probably very much with the grain of much of the UK’s craft beer community ;) I’ll swear I formed a negative opinion of both these beers before I [d]evolved into beer nerdery… but if you go against the grain of the crafties and drink & enjoy these beers, then good for you… I’d like to know how/if you battle the haters like myself?]

Oh, Camden…

I don’t have much to add about the unfortunate Camden BearD situation [oh, link has gone deadAnd it is back again.]. I understand the desire for brand protection on Camden Town Brewery’s part in this situation… I don’t have a problem with that. But it seems that they’ve handled this very badly. This is perhaps where “craft brewing” becomes “suit brewing” – where the accountants and lawyers are running the show.

Colin has only this to offer…

Oh... Camden... *sigh*

Oh... Camden.